ZA’ATAR
WHAT IS ZA’ATAR?
Za’atar is one of the most beguiling spices in the Middle Eastern pantry, but also one of the more confusing. That’s because the name refers to two separate but related things - first, a wild-growing, perennial plant that is native to the Levant, and second, a spice blend that contains that herb.
Video Credit: Nay Aoun
THE ZA’ATAR PLANT (Origanum syriacum in Latin)
Rather bushy with a woodsy fragrance, tiny white flowers, and lots of fuzzy leaves. It is a botanical relative to oregano and marjoram and shares its cousins’ savory, woodsy, and delicately minty flavor profiles. The plant’s leaves are sometimes marketed and sold under other names including Syrian oregano, wild thyme, biblical hyssop, and holy hyssop, though in recent years the name za’atar has become increasingly recognized.
Photo by Maria Midoes
THE ZA’ATAR SPICE BLEND
Za’atar spice blend pairs the dried and crumbled leaves of the za’atar plant with complementary spices and seeds. Exact ratios and recipes vary widely, depending on where they are being made. But most traditional za’atar blends include ground sumac berries, which lend a tart and lemony flavor, toasted sesame seeds for a mellow nuttiness, just enough salt to highlight and balance the flavors, and a bit of olive oil to pull everything together.
ZA’ATAR ORIGINS & CULTURAL IMPORTANCE
The za’atar plant grows wild across the Levant, and has been gathered and used since biblical times - as a cleansing ritual herb (think: burning sage), a medicinal plant (particularly to soothe stomach aches and congestion, and clear the mind), and in cooking. Scholars suggest it shows up in the Exodus story in the Hebrew Bible when the ancient Israelites used za’atar branches (called eizov) to smudge their doorposts with blood to be spared from the deadly tenth plague.
In their watershed cookbook, Jerusalem: A Cookbook, chefs Yotam Ottolenghi and Sami Tamimi write, “If there is one smell to match the emblematic image of the Old City of Jerusalem, one odor that encapsulates the soul of this ancient city nestling in the Judean Mountains, it is the smell of za’atar.” And indeed, za’atar is central not only to the cuisines of the people who live in the region - including those from Lebanon, Palestine, Syria, Egypt, and, more recently Israel - but also to their sense of identity.
When za’atar is in season, home cooks traditionally pair the fresh leaves with tomatoes and scallions and drizzle everything with olive oil and lemon juice to make a vibrant, earthy salad. The fresh leaves are also traditionally kneaded into bread dough as a flavoring, or pickled to use as a condiment. The dried spice blend gets mixed with olive oil to make a fragrant paste that is slathered onto flatbreads. The elongated, sesame seed-coated Jerusalem bagels sold all over the Old City are also served with little containers of dried za’atar for unparalleled dipping and snacking.
NEW YORK SHUK ZA’ATAR
HOW WE MAKE OUR ZA’ATAR SPICE BLEND
Not all za’atar blends are made the same! Lower quality blends typically substitute other spices like thyme, oregano, or savory for the za’atar leaves, bulk up the blend with flavorless fillers like ground toasted wheat, or use citric acid in place of the sumac. If a blend does not contain the za’atar plant or tries to sneak in other subpar ingredients, it is not the real deal.
NY Shuk’s Za’atar begins with the highest-quality za’atar leaves (Origanum syriacum) grown and dried in southern Lebanon by the Zaatar Zawtar farming collective. The za’atar is mixed with ground sumac from Turkey, sesame seeds, extra-virgin olive oil, and salt. That’s it. There are no hidden ingredients and no fillers - just pure, herbaceous flavor.
HOW TO USE ZA’ATAR
If you’ve ever showered a plate of creamy hummus or labane with za’atar, you know that the spice blend can elevate even the simplest of dishes. With so much complex and vibrant flavor packed into each spoon, za’atar enlivens everything from scrambled eggs and flatbreads to fresh tomato and cucumber salads. A generous sprinkle of za’atar also makes a savory coating for roasted chicken or grilled fish, dresses up grilled halloumi, a pot of creamy beans, crispy potatoes or other roasted vegetables, and effortlessly transforms your movie night popcorn into something truly special. However you choose to use it, plan to lick your plate clean. Would love more Za’atar inspo? We put together a list of 24 ways to use Za’atar to guide you through your home cooking journey.
RECIPES
Za’atar Eggs Sandwich
Za’atar Pita
Crispy Za’atar Potatoes
Za’atar Halloumi
Za’atar Chips
Labane
